Mujaki claims to have invented shirokuma in 1947 and is still the place to eat one. The "white bear" — named for the way condensed milk poured over shaved ice resembles a polar bear's face — is the size of a small basketball, topped with cherries, raisins, tinned fruit and a heart-shape of red bean. One is plenty for two.
The cafe occupies several floors of a corner building in southern Tenmonkan; the older ground-floor room has the most charm. There is a winter menu of pancakes and toast for the months when no one wants ice, but the shirokuma is sold year-round.