The main shrine of Kotohira and one of the oldest pilgrimage destinations in Japan, dedicated to Ōmononushi-no-mikoto, the god of seafarers, agriculture, and commerce. The site has been a place of worship since at least the 11th century. During the Edo period, when most Japanese were forbidden by their feudal lords from travelling, an exception was made for pilgrimages to Konpira-san, and the route became one of the great national journeys.
The climb is the experience. From the foot of the hill, 785 stone steps lead to the Hongū (main hall), passing through a sequence of torii gates, vendor stalls, stone lanterns, subsidiary shrines, the Shoin treasure hall, and the bronze Konpira-inu statue. The main hall is set on a terrace with a sweeping view over the Sanuki plain and on clear days as far as the Inland Sea. A further 583 steps continue to the Okusha (inner sanctuary) at 521 metres elevation; far fewer pilgrims make this stretch and the path is steeper, but the view is unobstructed.
Allow two to three hours up and back if you stop to look at the buildings; longer if you climb to the inner sanctuary. Walking sticks are available for hire at the foot. Get there early — the steps are easier in cool morning air and the lower section becomes crowded with tour groups by mid-morning.