The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature operates a small lodge at the Ajlun Nature Reserve, offering basic but comfortable wooden bungalows set among the oaks. Staying overnight is well worth it: the forest in early morning, when the light filters through the canopy and the birds are loud, is a different experience from a day visit. The RSCN also maintains a campsite for those who prefer a tent.
A simple restaurant on site serves Jordanian home cooking — meze, grilled meats, and seasonal dishes using local produce. Prices are reasonable. Book in advance, especially on weekends when families from Amman and Irbid fill the bungalows. The reserve is also a starting point for all five marked trails; being based here overnight gives you a head start on the longer routes before day-trippers arrive.