Ajlun

Northern Jordan highland town known for forested hills and a commanding medieval castle.

Ajlun is a small town in the highlands of northern Jordan, set among forested hills that are unusually green for the region. It sits about 75 km north of Amman and makes an easy half-day or full-day excursion from Jerash, which lies just to the east. Most visitors combine the two in a single day.

The main draw is Ajlun Castle (Qalat er-Rabad), a 12th-century Ayyubid fortress built by one of Saladin's generals to defend against Crusader incursions. The castle commands a sweeping view over the Jordan Valley and three wadis — on a clear day you can see all the way to Palestine. It remains one of the best-preserved Islamic military fortresses in the Levant, and the small archaeological museum inside it adds useful context.

Beyond the castle, the Ajlun Nature Reserve protects a stretch of oak, carob, and pistachio woodland — habitat rare in the Middle East. The RSCN (Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature) maintains five marked trails here, ranging from a short 1 km loop to the full-day Prophet's Trail, which ends at Tell Mar Elias, a Byzantine hilltop site associated with the Prophet Elijah. The reserve has overnight bungalows if you want to stay. Olive grove walks through the surrounding hills — especially during harvest season in October — are a gentler alternative. Nearby Anjara has an old church worth a look.

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Day Trips

Ajlun is compact enough that you will combine it with another destination rather than treat it as a base. The natural pairing is Jerash, 20 km to the east — one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world, and easily done in the same day.

Anjara, a few kilometres to the north-west, has a Greek Orthodox church built on a site where tradition says Mary rested during a journey through the region. It is a short detour and appealing if you have a car.

Irbid, Jordan's second city, lies 30 km to the north and has the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology at Yarmouk University — a worthwhile stop if you want to put the region's ancient sites in broader context.

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Eating Out

Ajlun has a handful of local restaurants in the town centre and a restaurant at the RSCN nature reserve. None are aimed primarily at tourists, which keeps prices low and the food honest.

The nature reserve restaurant is the most convenient option if you are spending time on the trails — it serves Jordanian home cooking in a pleasant outdoor setting among the trees. In town, small restaurants around the central square serve standard northern Jordanian food: mansaf, maqluba, hummus, and grilled meats. Breakfasts of ka'ak and sage tea are a highlight.

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Getting Around

Ajlun is a small town and the main sights — the castle and the nature reserve — are a few kilometres apart. The castle sits on a hilltop about 2 km from the town centre; the nature reserve visitor centre is a further 3–4 km to the south-west.

Taxis are the easiest option for moving between the town, castle, and reserve. Drivers are accustomed to tourists and will quote a waiting rate if you want them to stay while you visit. Agree on the price before getting in.

On foot between the castle and town is possible but steep. The castle road climbs sharply from the valley floor and is not particularly pleasant to walk along. A better plan is to take a taxi up and walk down.

Within the nature reserve, the RSCN trails are well marked and easy to follow. You do not need a guide for the shorter routes, though one is required for some of the longer trails (ask at the visitor centre). Trail maps are available at the entrance.

There is no public bus between the town centre and the castle; minibuses from Jerash drop off in town, not at the castle.

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Getting There

Ajlun is 76 km north-west of Amman and 20 km west of Jerash. Most visitors come as a day trip from Amman or combine it with a visit to Jerash.

From Amman: JETT and local buses run from Amman's North Bus Station (Tabarbour) to Ajlun town, taking around 1.5 hours. From there, minibuses and taxis run up to the castle. Alternatively, hire a taxi for the day from Amman (around JD 40–60 for a driver who will wait).

From Jerash: Shared minibuses connect Jerash and Ajlun roughly hourly during daylight hours. The journey takes 30–40 minutes. This is the most logical combination — visit Jerash in the morning and Ajlun in the afternoon, or vice versa.

By car: The road from Amman via the northern highway is straightforward. From Jerash, take the road west; the castle is clearly signposted. Parking is available at the castle entrance.

There is no train service to Ajlun.

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Things to Do

Ajlun rewards even a short visit. The castle is the headline, but the nature reserve trails are reason enough to stay longer.

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When to Go

Spring (March–May) is the best time to visit Ajlun. The forest is intensely green, wildflowers cover the hillsides, and temperatures are comfortable for hiking — warm in the afternoons, cool in the evenings. The RSCN trails are at their most beautiful.

Summer (June–August) is hot but more bearable than lowland Jordan because of the altitude — Ajlun sits at around 1,000 metres. Weekends bring Jordanian families escaping Amman's heat, so the castle and nature reserve can get busy on Fridays and Saturdays. Midweek visits are quieter.

Autumn (October–November) is olive harvest season, which adds texture to a visit: the countryside is active, roadside stalls sell fresh olive oil, and the light is golden. Winter brings cold and occasional snow — the forest looks dramatic but some trails become muddy. The castle is open year-round.