The most rewarding way to leave Nagarkot is on foot, following the trail that descends the western side of the ridge for four to five hours down through forest, terraced fields, and traditional Newari villages to the ancient temple of Changu Narayan. The 14-kilometre route is largely downhill and manageable for any reasonably fit walker; a guide is not strictly necessary but local knowledge helps when the path forks.
Changu Narayan itself is one of the oldest temples in the Kathmandu Valley, dating in its current form to at least the 4th century. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most sacred Vishnu temples in Nepal. The courtyard is full of extraordinary stone carvings — including a 5th-century image of Vishnu as Garud that is considered one of the finest examples of early Nepalese sculpture. The temple complex has a small museum displaying ancient inscriptions and stonework. From Changu Narayan, buses and taxis connect to Bhaktapur and back to Kathmandu.
story: "The Lichchhavi stone inscription at Changu Narayan, dated to around 464 CE, is the oldest stone inscription found in Nepal. It records a victory of King Mandeva and has survived outside, unprotected, for over 1,500 years."