People

Oman's population is around five million, of whom roughly half are Omani nationals. The expatriate community — mainly from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and the Philippines — is concentrated in Muscat and the major towns, working in construction, services, and trade.

Among Omanis, the majority are Arab, but the country's long history as a maritime and trading power has left its mark. You'll find communities of East African descent in coastal towns, Baluchi communities — descendants of migrants from what is now Pakistan and Iran — in several regions, and Swahili-speaking families in Muscat and Salalah whose ancestors returned from Zanzibar, which was once an Omani possession.

The dominant religion is Ibadhi Islam, a moderate branch distinct from both Sunni and Shia that is found almost nowhere else in the world in such numbers. The Ibadhi tradition has historically emphasised scholarly debate, religious tolerance, and community consensus. In practice, Oman feels significantly less religiously strict than its Gulf neighbours: alcohol is sold in hotels, there are few religious police, and non-Muslims encounter little interference in going about their lives.

Omani hospitality is genuine and can catch you off guard. An invitation to coffee and dates is a normal greeting, not a prelude to a sales pitch. If you're welcomed into someone's home or majlis, bring a small gift, remove your shoes at the door, and accept whatever is offered. Refusing coffee is a minor social slight; holding the small cup out and giving it a slight shake means you're done and would like no more.

Men in towns and formal settings typically wear the white dishdasha robe; the kumma cap or a muzzar turban marks more formal occasions. Women's dress varies considerably — from modest but colourful everyday clothes to a full abaya in more conservative areas. Younger Omanis in Muscat dress much as young people anywhere.