A traditional chai shop in the bazaar, the kind of place that has existed in some form in Gilgit for generations. The green tea is poured from large pots and costs very little. There is no menu as such — tea arrives, conversation happens, and the world passes outside. The clientele is local and almost entirely male, but travellers who stop here tend to be welcomed rather than stared at. The qahwa — green tea with cardamom, cinnamon, and saffron — is particularly good.