The Panguna Mine sits in the mountains of central Bougainville, about 60 km south of Buka. Opened in 1972 by Bougainville Copper Limited (a subsidiary of Rio Tinto), it was one of the largest copper operations on earth, with an estimated reserve of 5.3 billion tonnes of ore also containing nearly 20 million ounces of gold. At its peak it generated close to half of Papua New Guinea's total export earnings.
The mine's tailings were discharged directly into the Jaba River, poisoning the river system from end to end, destroying fish populations, causing birth defects, and eventually wiping out the island's flying fox population. Community opposition, combined with the perceived injustice of royalty payments (local landowners received almost nothing), sparked the conflict that began in 1988. The mine closed in 1989 and has never reopened.
The mine can be visited — it is a vast terraced pit carved into the rainforest, now gradually being reclaimed by vegetation — but access requires going through communities that have complicated relationships with the site. Hire a local guide and seek permission from community leaders before visiting.