Pagwi is the principal road-river junction on the Sepik: a rough seven-hour ride from Wewak on the north coast over the Prince Alexander Range brings you here, and the river takes over. There is a basic guesthouse, a small market, and a handful of operators who run trips downriver — typically three to seven days by motorised longboat through the Middle Sepik to the Chambri Lakes and back.
The village itself is unremarkable, but the riverbank at Pagwi is one of the better places to organise transport, buy supplies, and meet guides. Negotiate the trip in advance — fuel is expensive on the river and you should agree the route and the price for everything before you leave the bank.