Samar is the third-largest island in the Philippines and one of its least-visited, which is exactly the point. Connected to Leyte by the San Juanico Bridge, the island is split into three provinces -- Western Samar, Eastern Samar, and Northern Samar -- and offers raw, unpolished natural beauty: waterfalls, caves, surf breaks, and long stretches of coastline with barely a tourist in sight.
Calbayog on the western coast is the island's largest city and a good base for exploring. It is known as the "City of Waterfalls" for good reason -- Bangon-Bugtong Falls, Pan-as Falls, and Tabokno Falls are all within striking distance. Caves like Guinogo-an and Danao add underground adventure, while Malajog Beach offers the best swimming near town. The Mawacat natural water slide is a highlight for families.
Borongan, the capital of Eastern Samar, has fine grey-sand beaches at Cabong and Rawis, and the eastern coast faces Pacific swells that draw a small but dedicated surfing community. Getting around the island requires patience -- roads vary in quality and jeepneys and habal-habals (modified motorcycles) are the main transport options. The main language is Waray-Waray, though Tagalog and English are widely understood.
The wet season runs from November to January, with drier conditions from March to September. Samar took a devastating hit from Typhoon Haiyan in 2013 and has rebuilt steadily since. The island rewards the adventurous traveler willing to go off the beaten path.
