Yangnim-dong is Gwangju's most interesting walking neighbourhood, a hill of missionary houses, old schools, churches, hanok, murals, and small galleries. It is sometimes called the city's modern history village, which sounds dry until you start climbing its lanes.
The pleasure is in the mix. Western-style houses from the early 20th century sit near Korean homes and community-made art corners such as Penguin Village. It is a good antidote to treating Gwangju only as museums and memorials.