Doma is the Korean barbecue most locals will point you to in Hongdae — a galbi specialist that has been grilling hand-cut domestic beef over genuine charcoal for well over a decade. The format is the familiar one: marbled short rib and brisket arrive raw, the staff help get the charcoal grill going at your table, and you wrap the seared meat in lettuce and perilla with garlic, ssamjang, and kimchi.
What sets it apart from the cheaper all-you-can-eat joints nearby is the quality of the meat and the smoke from the live coals, which the gas grills around the district can't match. It fills up fast in the evenings, so come early or expect a wait. Round the meal off with cold naengmyeon noodles or a soybean stew, and wash it down with soju.