Seoul's headline sights are its five Joseon palaces — Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung the grandest, Deoksugung the smallest and strangest with its Western-style annexes. Around them, the restored hanok neighbourhood of Bukchon makes a good walk, and Namsan Mountain in the middle of the city carries the N Seoul Tower for the best panorama. The city also does grim history very well: Seodaemun Prison is a sobering museum of the Japanese occupation, and the 4.19 Cemetery remembers the students killed in the 1960 revolution.