About 14 km north of Jaffna, near the village of Chunnakam, a field contains dozens of small Buddhist stupas clustered together in a space not much larger than a tennis court. There are around 60 of them, ranging from about a metre to several metres high, all roughly conical and built of brick that has acquired the pale colour of aged limestone. The effect is peculiar and arresting — like a miniature ancient city, compressed and abandoned.
The Kantharodai stupas are off the standard tourist routes and the site has minimal infrastructure. Getting there requires a tuk-tuk or hired bike from Jaffna. The surrounding area is flat agricultural land, which makes the cluster of ancient structures all the more unexpected. Combine with a visit to the Casuarina Beach nearby if you have a full day.