The area north and west of Kurunegala is home to some of Sri Lanka's most interesting and least-visited ancient sites, all reachable in a leisurely day with your own transport or a hired tuk-tuk.
Yapahuwa (45 km north) is a dramatic rock fortress rising nearly 100 metres above the surrounding lowlands, built in the 13th century as a temporary capital of the Sinhalese kingdom. The carved ceremonial staircase that winds up the rock face to the Lion Gate is one of the finest examples of medieval Sinhalese stone carving.
Arankele (25 km north) is an ancient forest monastery hidden on a jungle-covered hillside, with remains of meditation walkways, ponds and cells used by monks seeking seclusion. It sees very few visitors and retains a genuine atmosphere of quiet.
Panduwas Nuwara is an even earlier royal site, with earthwork fortifications and ruins scattered across a forested area — underfunded and underexplored, which makes it appealing if you like having ancient places to yourself.
Padeniya Raja Maha Viharaya (25 km west) is a Kandyan-period temple noted for its extraordinary wooden pillars, carved in the Kandyan style, and a frieze of lion sculptures running around the main image house.