Tonsai Village is the commercial heart of Phi Phi Don, packed onto the narrow isthmus between Tonsai Bay and Loh Dalum Bay. Its lanes are a maze of dive shops, massage parlours, restaurants, bars, guesthouses, and souvenir stalls. If it can be bought or eaten on the island, it can be found here — sometimes at inflated prices, always with persistent vendors.
The village is best in the early morning, when the boats have not yet arrived from Phuket and the streets have a brief period of relative calm. At night it turns into a fire-show-and-buckets-of-spirits affair that appeals strongly to a certain type of backpacker and not at all to everyone else. There is no avoiding passing through it on the way to everything else, which is ultimately fine — the energy is part of the Phi Phi Don experience, not incidental to it.