Wat Phra That Choeng Chum is Sakon Nakhon's spiritual centre. The white stupa stands in the heart of the city and is said to cover footprints of four Buddhas, which gives the place a pull far beyond its modest scale.
Come in the morning or early evening, when local worshippers give the compound its rhythm. The temple is also the focus of the city's wax-castle procession around the end of Buddhist Lent, when decorated wax structures are carried through town.