Khao soi — a rich coconut milk curry broth with egg noodles, served with crispy noodles on top and a trio of condiments — is the signature dish of Chiang Mai, and Lam Duan Fah Ham on Charoen Rat Road is one of the best places to eat it. The restaurant is a simple open-fronted shophouse across the river from the old city, popular with locals at lunch.
The broth is deeply flavoured and aromatic, the chicken properly tender, and the crispy noodles add a pleasing crunch. Order a side of pickled cabbage and a glass of strong iced tea to complete the experience. Arrive early — the place sells out and closes by mid-afternoon. Cheap, fast, and outstanding.