The string of fish restaurants along the Cunda Island waterfront is the most atmospheric place to eat in the Ayvalık area. Restaurants here serve whatever came in that morning — sea bream, sea bass, red mullet, anchovies in season, along with grilled octopus, squid, and prawns. Most places display their fish on ice at the entrance; pointing at what you want is perfectly normal and lets you judge freshness by eye.
The meal typically starts with a spread of cold meze: stuffed vine leaves, fried courgette with yoghurt, white bean salad, tarama, and hummus. These arrive with fresh bread and are generous enough to constitute a meal on their own. Raki — Turkey's anise spirit — is the traditional accompaniment, drunk diluted with water and ice, turning milky-white in the glass. The fish follows as a main, grilled simply with lemon and olive oil.
Prices are not low by Turkish standards, but the quality and the setting justify them. Tables spill out onto the waterfront in season; arrive before 1pm for lunch to get a waterside table. The boat from Ayvalık town takes about fifteen minutes and runs regularly through summer.