Friendship Bridge

The Friendship Bridge spans the Amu Darya between Termez and Hairatan in northern Afghanistan. You cannot cross it as a tourist, but you can see it from the Uzbek bank, and the view across the broad, slow river into Afghanistan — so close, so inaccessible — is one of the more charged border experiences in Central Asia.

The bridge was built by the Soviets in 1982 to supply their forces in Afghanistan. It saw almost constant military traffic during the decade of occupation and became famous as the route Soviet troops used when they withdrew in 1989. Today it is a commercial crossing point, and you may see trucks moving between the two countries. The whole frontier zone here has a different atmosphere from the rest of Uzbekistan — quieter, more military, more aware of what lies on the other side of the water.

things to do sight
A story
In February 1989, the last Soviet troops to leave Afghanistan crossed the Amu Darya on this bridge. General Boris Gromov walked across last, alone, and was met by his teenage son on the Uzbek bank — a scene filmed by Soviet television and broadcast live. It was, as Gromov put it, the end of a war that had cost 15,000 Soviet lives. The bridge that witnessed that moment still carries traffic between the two countries today.