Each October and early November, the Dong Van Karst Plateau turns pink and white with buckwheat flowers — the crop that the H'mong grow between the limestone rocks as a secondary food source. The blooms last for three to four weeks and transform a landscape that is austere for most of the year into something unexpectedly soft and photogenic. The flowers appear across the plateau from Yen Minh through Dong Van and along the road to Meo Vac, dense in some areas, scattered in others.
The flowering season is the most popular time to visit Ha Giang, which means guesthouses in Dong Van and Meo Vac fill quickly and road traffic on the Loop increases noticeably. If you prefer the plateau without crowds, September brings a green landscape before the harvest, and January-February has the cold mist and emptiness that some travellers find more evocative. The buckwheat season is real and worth timing a visit around — but if you miss it, the karst plateau is worth visiting regardless.