The tourist strip of Halong City, lining a curving bay with restaurants, hotels, souvenir shops, and the departure point for cruise boats. The promenade along the waterfront is pleasant enough for an evening walk, with the bay and its islands visible in the distance. The beach here is narrow and not particularly clean, but the views are good.
The streets behind the waterfront have the real eating and drinking scene — bánh cuốn (steamed rice rolls), bún riêu (crab noodle soup), and grilled squid from street carts are the local staples. The seafood restaurants along the water cater mostly to domestic Vietnamese tourists and offer better value than the places aimed at international visitors. Ask for the Vietnamese-language menu if they offer one.