Great Cao Dai Temple

The Great Cao Dai Temple — officially the Tây Ninh Holy See — is the Vatican of Cao Dai, the syncretic Vietnamese religion founded in 1926 that blends Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, Christianity and elements of Western spiritualism. The temple itself was built between 1933 and 1955 and is one of the most visually spectacular buildings in Southeast Asia: a vast and brightly coloured structure with twin towers, a blue-and-pink facade, dragon-wrapped columns, and an enormous all-seeing eye above the central portal.

Inside, the nave is extraordinarily ornate — painted columns, celestial imagery, and altars rising in tiers toward the ceiling. During the four daily ceremonies (at 6am, noon, 6pm and midnight), the interior fills with hundreds of white-, blue- and yellow-robed worshippers seated by rank and sex, chanting and prostrating in coordinated waves while an orchestra plays. Visitors watch from the upper gallery at the back and sides — this is an active religious ceremony, not a performance, and should be treated with the same quiet respect as any major place of worship. Photography from the gallery is generally permitted, but flash is intrusive. The noon ceremony is the best attended. Dress modestly; sarongs are available at the entrance if needed.

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The Cao Dai religion's pantheon of saints includes some unexpected figures: alongside the Buddha, Confucius and Laozi sit Jesus Christ, Mohammed, Joan of Arc, Sun Yat-sen, and Victor Hugo — the French writer is venerated as a heavenly emissary and his portrait appears prominently in the temple. Hugo was chosen in part because of his championing of the oppressed and his spiritual writings late in life.