Collingwood sits directly east of Fitzroy and shares much of its character, though it has historically been even grittier. The suburb's main artery, Smith Street, was known for decades as a street of sex workers and heroin dealers; it is now one of Melbourne's best strips for independent eating and drinking. Johnston Street, running east-west, is Melbourne's Spanish quarter, with flamenco bars and tapas restaurants that get going very late. The suburb's industrial heritage shows in its converted warehouses — many now home to galleries, breweries, and design studios.
Collingwood's AFL team, the Collingwood Magpies, is the most supported and most polarising club in the competition. The MCG, just over the Yarra in Richmond, is as much their ground as it is anyone's. The suburb's young, creative population means new openings move fast — what's hot changes year to year, but the energy on Smith Street on a Friday night is consistently excellent.