Cook Islands food is rooted in what the Pacific provides: fish, taro, coconut, tropical fruit. The traditional cooking method is the umu — an underground oven of heated stones — used for feasts and special occasions. An umukai feast is worth attending if you get the chance.
Ika mata is the dish most associated with the Cook Islands: raw fish (usually tuna or mahi-mahi) marinated in fresh lime juice, then mixed with coconut cream, onion, chilli, and tomato. It is the local equivalent of ceviche and is excellent when made fresh. You will find it everywhere on Rarotonga, from market stalls to resort restaurants.
Rukau is young taro leaves cooked in coconut cream — rich, slightly slimy in texture, and deeply satisfying. Curried eke (octopus in coconut curry) is another staple that appears on most menus. Fresh fish — grilled, fried, or raw — features prominently.
The Muri Night Market on Rarotonga is the best affordable eating in the country, running Thursday to Sunday evenings on the edge of Muri Lagoon. A full plate of grilled fish or BBQ chicken with rice costs around NZ$12–15. There is also fresh coconut, local desserts, and cold beer. The market doubles as a community gathering; it is lively without being touristy.
Rarotonga has a range of restaurants, from simple takeaways to decent sit-down places serving Pacific-influenced food. Prices are higher than you might expect — the Cook Islands are not a budget destination, and imported goods cost accordingly. On the outer islands, food options are minimal; guesthouses typically provide meals, and self-catering is difficult. Stock up on Rarotonga before you go.