Battle of Tarawa Memorial and Betio Battlefield

Battlefield walk on Betio, with bunkers, gun emplacements, and the US Marine memorial

Betio, the western tip of Tarawa Atoll, was one of the most heavily fortified positions of the Pacific War and the site of the brutal Battle of Tarawa in November 1943. Walking around the islet today you still find Japanese bunkers, coastal gun emplacements with their long-barrelled British-made naval guns intact, command pillboxes scarred by shellfire, and the rusting wreckage of landing craft on the reef flats at low tide. The principal Marine memorial sits near the old causeway, and Japanese and Korean memorials are scattered across the island.

The whole islet is the battlefield — there is no marked trail. Hire a local guide in Betio or arrange one through your hotel; they know which gun positions to find, the stories behind them, and which scrap of beach corresponds to which Marine company's landing. Bring water, sun cover, and good shoes. It is hot, exposed, and slow walking, but it is one of the most affecting battlefield visits anywhere.

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A story
Over 76 hours in November 1943, more than 1,000 US Marines and nearly 5,000 Japanese and Korean defenders were killed on this single islet. The reef extended further from shore than the planners realised; landing craft grounded hundreds of metres out and Marines waded in under direct fire, which is why so many of the dead were lost before they ever reached dry land.