Varoš is the old fishing quarter that grew up on the western slope of Marjan Hill immediately outside the palace walls, and it's the most authentic residential neighbourhood in central Split. The steep lanes of stone houses, many of them unchanged since the 18th century, climb toward the rocky hillside above; washing lines stretch between windows, cats occupy the doorsteps, and the whole area has a lived-in quality that stands in sharp contrast to the tourist economy of the palace interior.
Several of Split's best smaller restaurants are in Varoš: konobas with short menus, fresh fish, and no particular incentive to attract passing trade. The neighbourhood is also where many of the city's artists and craftspeople have studios, making it a good place to find locally made objects if you know where to look. The entry from the palace is through the Iron Gate on the western side — turn left immediately and you're in Varoš within a few steps.