Kristinestad's old town is the reason to come. The centre keeps its 17th-century grid and a fine spread of low wooden houses, many painted in the soft reds, yellows and creams typical of the Finnish coast. It feels lived-in rather than staged, which is part of the charm.
Start near the market square and wander without trying to cover every street. The town is small, the bay is always close, and the best details are the small ones: old gates, plank fences, weathered outbuildings and sudden views down to the water.