The Quartier Historique clusters around the château on the north bank of the Charente. Its streets are lined with half-timbered medieval houses, Renaissance facades, and — everywhere you look — the black Baudoinia compniacensis fungus that coats every surface within range of the cognac warehouses. Locals call it the black angel: the same "angel's share" that evaporates from the ageing barrels over decades settles on walls, rooftiles, and fences, giving the quarter its distinctive dark patina.
The Rue Grande and the streets around the Place François 1er are the best for walking. Small artisan shops, wine bars, and a few cafes fill the ground floors of the old buildings. The climb up to the château terrace gives a view over the river and the rooftops below.