Chemin de Halage

The Chemin de Halage is the most unusual walk in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie and one of the great short walks of the southwest. From the village it descends to the river, then follows the Lot upstream along a 19th-century towpath that was literally chiselled into the cliff face — for several hundred metres, the cliff overhangs the path so completely that you walk in a tall stone tunnel open on one side to the river.

Along the way a contemporary sculpture by Daniel Monnier is carved into the rock above the path: an abstract relief of geometric shapes that the artist worked into the limestone over several seasons in the 1980s, in homage to the original quarrymen. The full out-and-back from the village takes about 90 minutes at an easy pace; wear shoes with grip in wet weather, when the limestone slabs can be slippery.

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A story
The towpath was hacked out of the cliff face by hand in the 1840s, when commercial barges still moved goods up and down the Lot. Bargemen and oxen used it to haul boats upstream against the current. The traffic ended when railways arrived around 1870, leaving the path as a strange engineering relic carved into the rock.