The Cathédrale Saint-Étienne rises above the town centre and rewards a long look inside. Built and rebuilt from the 11th through the 17th centuries, it presents an architectural timeline compressed into a single building: the early Romanesque north wall, the soaring Gothic nave, and a Baroque triumphal arch from the 18th century. The result should be incoherent but isn't — the different elements coexist with surprising harmony.
The outstanding feature is the stained glass. The cathedral has windows spanning eight centuries, from a 12th-century Romanesque Crucifixion on the south wall to mid-20th century abstract panels. The effect on a sunny morning, with the light shifting through blue and gold and crimson glass, is genuinely extraordinary. Entry is free; guided tours in French run at set times.