The last of the great Renaissance châteaux built on the Loire, completed in 1536 by Jean Le Breton — François I's secretary of state, who had picked up his taste for Italian gardens during a diplomatic posting to Rome. The château itself is restrained by Loire standards, three handsome white wings around a courtyard open to the river, with a single keep retained from the medieval fortress that stood here before.
The gardens are the reason to come. Six terraces step down towards the Cher: the ornamental garden of love, the water garden, a maze, a herb garden, the famous Renaissance potager (kitchen garden) where nine geometric beds of vegetables are replanted twice a year, and a sun garden added in 2008. Climb the keep tower for the aerial view that makes sense of the whole composition. Allow three hours — the gardens are large and unhurried walking is part of the point. Open daily from 9:00, with garden-only tickets in the evening through summer.