Régi Hangulat ("Old Atmosphere") is one of the better-regarded restaurants in Tokaj, occupying a traditional Hungarian dining room near the main square. The menu is solidly Hungarian — halászlé (fisherman's soup made with carp and paprika), gulyás, and stuffed peppers — with a wine list that covers the major local producers from entry-level Furmint to premium Aszú.
The kitchen is straightforward rather than ambitious, but the portions are generous and the cooking honest. It's the kind of place where a bottle of dry Furmint costs less than you'd pay for a glass in a Budapest wine bar, and the owner will recommend a producer if you ask. Reservations useful in summer weekends.