Chianalea is the postcard half of Scilla. A single stone-paved alley winds between pastel houses whose foundations sit directly in the sea, with side passages that drop straight to the water. Boats are pulled up against the kitchen doors of the old fishermen's families, and the smell is of salt, garlic, and frying anchovies.
The right way to experience it is to wander slowly from the Castello Ruffo end and out along the alley until it runs out, then double back for an aperitif at one of the seaside terraces. Sunset is the best moment — the rocks of Sicily across the water turn pink, and the lights along the strait begin to come on.