La Lamia is one of the most atmospheric places to eat in Tropea, occupying an old palazzo in the clifftop old town with terrace seating that looks directly out over the sea toward the Aeolian Islands. The menu leans heavily on the local catch — swordfish, tuna, and red mullet all appear regularly — with Tropea's celebrated red onion working its way into starters and pasta sauces.
The pasta with nduja and Tropea onion is the dish to order if you want to understand the region's flavour in one bowl. Service is warm and unhurried in the Italian way; this is not the place to eat if you are in a hurry, but it is exactly the right place to watch the sunset over the islands with a bottle of Cirò rosso.