The rifugio network is one of the great pleasures of hiking in the Dolomites. These mountain huts — ranging from simple shelter with beds for eight to substantial hotels with private rooms and panoramic terraces — are spaced across the mountains so that walkers on the main trails are rarely more than two hours from a place to eat and sleep. The system makes multi-day hiking accessible to ordinary walkers who couldn't carry full camping gear.
The quality of food at a good rifugio is exceptional: polenta with venison ragù, fresh pasta with porcini mushrooms, homemade strudel, local Lagrein wine. Booking ahead is essential in July and August, when the most popular huts fill weeks in advance. Rifugio Scotoni in Alta Badia, Rifugio Averau above Cortina, and Rifugio Franz Kostner on the Sella plateau are among the most celebrated for their food; Rifugio Lagazuoi on the Falzarego is worth visiting for the WWI history alone. Most rifugi are open from late June to late September.