Segovia's Plaza Mayor is the natural heart of the old city — an elegant, arcaded square anchored at one end by the bulk of the cathedral and lined on the other three sides by the town hall, cafes, and restaurants. It is one of the better town squares in Castile for the simple reason that it manages to be genuinely pretty without being too touristy. Locals sit alongside visitors, there is life here in the evenings, and the cathedral tower looming overhead gives the whole thing an appropriate sense of scale.
Sit at one of the outdoor terraces in the arcaded sections for coffee in the morning or wine in the evening. The tourist information office is on the square, and it is a useful starting point for navigating the old city. The weekend brings a small craft market and, in summer, occasional outdoor concerts. Most of Segovia's best restaurants are within a five-minute walk.