Calle Palma is the city's tapeo street: a narrow lane lined with old-school bars where ordering a small beer or vermouth gets you a free tapa, and the tradition is to bar-crawl one drink at a time. Bar La Plata, Bar Pemán and El Resbalón are local favourites, but pick whichever is busiest.
The action starts around 8pm and runs into the small hours at the weekend. Order caña (small beer) or vermut con sifón to get the cheapest plate of the day's free tapa.