The casco antiguo of Benidorm occupies the rocky headland between the two beaches and gives you a glimpse of what the town was before the resort arrived. The streets are narrow and whitewashed, the houses blue-shuttered, and the pace is noticeably different from the tourist strip below. A few authentic tapas bars and Spanish seafood restaurants have survived here, serving the local population that still lives in these streets.
The main plaza — Plaza del Castillo — is shaded by trees and has a small fountain. Several streets lead down to church courtyards with sea views. Wandering without a map is the right approach; the headland is small enough that you cannot get seriously lost. The best tapas in Benidorm are here: look for small bars serving gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns) and boquerones (white anchovies) to Spanish rather than British customers.