Castle of Peñíscola

The castle stands at the summit of the rock, visible from miles out to sea. The Knights Templar built it between 1294 and 1307 on the foundations of an earlier Moorish fortification, and the Templar cross still marks the gatehouse. The structure is compact and well preserved — thick walls, a vaulted throne room, and a keep with sweeping views across the bay.

Most of what you see inside relates to Benedict XIII, the Aragonese cardinal who became Pope Benedict XIII during the Western Schism and refused every pressure to abdicate. The papal apartments, the chapel, and the study where he reportedly dictated letters until his final days are all open. A small museum covers the schism and his stubborn tenure with unusual candour.

The climb from the old town gate takes about ten minutes on foot. Entry costs around €5. Mornings are cooler and less crowded; the views at dusk are exceptional.

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A story
Pedro de Luna — Pope Benedict XIII — arrived in Peñíscola in 1415 after being deposed by the Council of Constance, which declared the Western Schism over. He disagreed. From this castle he continued to issue papal bulls, appoint cardinals, and insist on his legitimacy until he died in 1423, aged around 94. At that point his two remaining loyal cardinals elected a successor, making Peñíscola briefly the seat of the last antipope anyone took seriously.