The walled old town covers the entire upper part of the rock peninsula. Medieval walls encircle it almost intact, and the streets inside are narrow, steep, and largely traffic-free. The main gate — the Puerta Forcada — leads up through a tangle of whitewashed houses, small squares, and the odd wine shop to the castle at the top.
It is genuinely well preserved rather than restored. The scale is small enough that you can walk the whole circuit of the walls in under an hour. Outside peak summer the old town is quiet enough that you can hear your own footsteps echoing off the stone.
Most of the restaurants, souvenir shops, and cafes cluster near the base of the rock and around the main gate. Higher up, past the church of the Virgen de la Ermitana, the streets thin out and the views open up across both beaches.