The flat-topped 575-metre mountain that dominates the bay of Baracoa is one of the most recognisable landmarks in Cuba. It is also climbable — a four-to-five hour round trip on a steep, sometimes slippery trail through the protected Cuchillas del Toa Biosphere Reserve, with a swim in a river pool at the start and the summit's panoramic view of mountains and sea at the end.
The walk has to be done with a licensed guide, arranged through the Eco Tur office in town or at the trailhead at the Finca Duaba farm just outside Baracoa. The forest is rich in endemic species, including the polymita land snails whose striped, multicoloured shells were once exported as jewellery. Take plenty of water and prepare to get muddy.