Eating in Santiago is easier than in many Cuban cities — the paladares (private restaurants) are generally better than the state-run establishments and have improved considerably in recent years. The local cuisine draws on Afro-Cuban and Caribbean influences: more spice, more heat, and more variety than Havana's cooking.
Paladares to look for: La Fortaleza near the Moncada Barracks is reliable for rice and bean dishes, grilled pork, and the Creole-style sauces that distinguish Santiago's cooking from the rest of Cuba. Near Parque Céspedes, several small paladares on the side streets serve fresh fish and lobster at prices far below what the tourist hotels charge. Always agree on the price before ordering — menus in Cuban pesos and CUP can cause confusion.
Street food is worth exploring: tamales, croquetas, and fried plantain are sold from carts throughout the old town. Avoid the state cafeterias unless you are specifically trying to experience austere institutional Cuban cooking.