Citadelle Laferrière and Sans-Souci Palace. The crown jewel of Haitian heritage. The Citadelle is a massive mountaintop fortress built by King Henri Christophe in the early 19th century to defend the newly independent nation against French reconquest. It took 200,000 workers over 13 years and stands at 900 metres above sea level. At the foot of the mountain is the ruins of Sans-Souci Palace, Christophe's royal residence, modeled loosely on Versailles. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The site is near Milot, a short drive south of Cap-Haïtien.
Cap-Haïtien. The country's second city and its historical capital. Columbus made landfall nearby in 1492, and it was here that the revolution's decisive battles were fought. The colonial street grid survives, the beaches north of the city — Labadie and Cormier — are beautiful, and the city has a more relaxed atmosphere than the capital.
Jacmel. A charming southern port town with fine colonial-era ironwork houses, a thriving arts scene, and good beaches nearby. The Bassin Bleu — a series of clear mountain pools reached by a hike through the hills — is one of the best natural attractions in the country. Jacmel's carnival is famous for its elaborate papier-mâché masks and costumes.
Haitian art. Haiti has produced an extraordinary visual arts tradition: naïve painting, iron sculpture, sequined Vodou flags (drapo), and papier-mâché work. The Musée d'Art du Collège Saint-Pierre in Port-au-Prince and galleries in Pétion-Ville were the best places to see the range of work.
Vodou ceremony. Witnessing a genuine Vodou ceremony — drumming, singing, and possession by the lwa — is an experience unlike anything else in the Caribbean. These are religious events, not performances, and attending requires an invitation or connection to a local. Handle any such opportunity with respect.
Carnival. Haitian carnival is among the most energetic in the Caribbean. Jacmel's version is particularly famous for its hand-crafted costumes and masks, and is smaller and more accessible than Port-au-Prince's.