Topolo has been one of the better restaurants in the old town for two decades. The dining room is a courtyard inside a restored 19th-century mansion two blocks from Plazuela Machado — high ceilings, hanging plants, candles on long tables. The menu is Sinaloan with mainstream Mexican standards: chiles en nogada in season, smoked-marlin tacos, grilled seafood with regional sauces. Service is unhurried, the wine list is decent, the bill is more than at the street stalls but well below what the same dinner would cost in Cabo.
The Saturday-night marimba trio is part of the experience. Reserve at the weekend or you will not get a table.