The Cathedral of the Assumption — or Catedral de la Asunción — is the largest cathedral in Central America and the city's most commanding presence. Its pale limestone facade faces the main plaza, and the interior holds the tombs of several Nicaraguan poets, including Rubén Darío, whose recumbent figure rests beneath a marble lion at the foot of the nave.
The real reward is the rooftop. For a small fee you can climb onto the vast whitewashed expanse and walk across it, with views stretching to the volcanoes of the Marribios chain. On a clear day you can see five or six cones rising from the Pacific plain. Guides are available at the entrance and are worth taking — they know the cathedral's history in detail and point out architectural features you would otherwise miss.