Big Jake's is the local sit-down barbecue institution, smoking brisket and ribs over hickory and serving them with white bread, pickles, and onions in the East Texas style. The atmosphere is roadhouse without being kitschy: red booths, sports on the TV, and a chalkboard listing the day's sides.
Order the brisket plate with potato salad and pinto beans. The smoked sausage is house-made and well above the regional average. Lines build for Friday lunch and on football Saturdays.