A small barbecue joint on the west side of town that does ribs, pulled pork, and brisket slow-smoked over hickory. The sides — baked beans, coleslaw, mac and cheese — are made from scratch and the portions are large. It is the kind of place where the pitmaster takes his craft seriously but the room is purely functional: a few tables, paper napkins, sauce bottles on the counter. Go early; they sell out.