The flagship of Portland's modern food scene, still booked weeks ahead and still excellent. Open-kitchen cooking over wood, the daily-changing menu, and a long bar where walk-ins can usually find a seat make this the single restaurant most worth planning around.
Try the wood-roasted mussels and the daily turnspit-roasted pork loin. 288 Fore Street, in the Old Port. Dinner only; reservations strongly advised.