The harbour at Rock Hall faces dead west across the open Chesapeake. There is nothing between you and the far shore but twelve miles of water, which means clear evenings deliver one of the longest, slowest, most photogenic sunsets on the East Coast. Walk out along the public pier, find a bench, and watch the sky go orange.
The harbour itself is a working one. Watermen still go out at four in the morning to tong oysters and pull crab traps; sailing yachts from Annapolis and Baltimore drop anchor for the weekend; the marina is full of bay-built deadrise boats with their distinctive low foredecks. Watermans Crab House, at the southern end, is the obvious place for a beer at the end of the day.